Video of our Cochise Adventure

While it has taken me some extra time due to my minimal video editing skills and our trip to Queens Creek, I have pieced together the video from the long day Matt described in his last post. Through trial and error (but mostly error) we are starting to learn how to best use the wearable helmet-cam.

Currently hanging out in Phoenix, we are slowly making our way to Joshua Tree National Park in California. Two days of climbing in Queens Creek has left our fingers raw and ready for a break. The plan is to settle down at JTree for several weeks and explore its vast expanse of granite formations.

Long day on the sheephead

1500+ feet of climbing. 10 hours car-to-car. 2 delicious beers enjoyed. That pretty much sums up the day.

Cam and I decided to have a long day on the rock on Monday. We made two trips up and down the Sheepshead here in Cochise stronghold. It was a long, but very good day. This was the first beer that we have had since the first few days of the trip. Needless to say, the beer tasted glorious after climbing all day.

The climbing here in Cochise is not what I would have expected at all. Many of the routes on the bigger domes are bolted. This is mainly because there really aren’t that many continuous crack systems in the rock. This lack of cracks leads to a style of climbing that I have come to enjoy…slab climbing.

Over just the last 4 days, I have learned so much about slab climbing. For those who may not know, slab climbing is climbing on rock that is less than vertical. Because of the shallow angle of the rock, then holds tend to be pretty tiny in order to keep the climb somewhat difficult. Where as with vertical rock faces, the holds are at least large enough to get your fingers around, and at least a quarter inch of so of rubber from your shoes. With slab climbing this is not so much the case.

There was sections of the climbs today where I standing on an edge about the width of a dime, while pulling with my fingertips on a hold even smaller. The key to slab climbing is balance, making sure to never put too much weight onto a certain foot or handhold. This has been a very good learning experience, and has added a much needed technique to my climbing repertoire.

Leaving the Tanks of Hueco

Our week of bouldering in Hueco Tanks has come to an end. To be honest, it was quite a surprising stop. Surprising because I decided that I actually like bouldering. Maybe it is just because Hueco has some of the best bouldering in the US, but if all bouldering areas were as fun as Hueco, I could almost consider myself a boulderer.

For those who actually care to hear (Sean), here is a quick rundown of some of the most notable problems that we did (pardon the spray).

V0 - Melon Patch

V1 - Thunderbird

V2 - Nobody Here Gets Out Alive, Ghetto Simulator

V3 - Name Dropper

V4 - Sign of The Cross (V4 variation)

V5 - Lobsterclaw

V6 - See Spot Run (Didn't finish this one. Project for future returns)

Thunderbird

Melon Patch

Now we move on to the opposite end of the climbing spectrum. Next stop, Cochise Stronghold. This is the premiere multi-pitch traditional climbing destination of Arizona. We plan on spending the next week touring the southern Arizona climbing scene. Our three stops are, Cochise, Lower Devils Canyon (Queen's Creek Canyon), and Homestead. After a week of bouldering, it is time to start placing widgets again.

It might be a while before we have internet availability, so look forward to a longer blog about our Arizona climbing experience in the next week or so. Other news of note, Cam's GoPro came in the mail today. So look forward to really poorly filmed, high quality HD video soon.

Hueco Tanks Update

Matt and I have spent four days in Hueco Tanks, a world famous bouldering location. The rock is bullet hard and the climbing has exceeded its reputation. Things are going well. Instead of a typical deserted camping spot, we are staying at a commercial operation called Hueco Rock Ranch. Key amenities include toilets, a common room complete with a ping pong table, and showers. I feel like it equates to rock climbing Disney World.

So far we have completed two climb/rest day cycles that comprise of two days on and one day off. Our fingertips are a little raw, but life goes on. We have two more days to finish some key climbs before we take off for Arizona.

A different post with some photos might follow later, but I thought I would post a video of Matt climbing a super-classic problem. Hope you enjoy it!

(sorry for the low quality, the higher quality one refused to upload)

Last Chance Canyon and Guadeloupe Peak

Today is a double post so be sure to check out the post below about our time in the Carlsbad Caverns

After Carlsbad, we drove through the boonies of SE New Mexico and found a nice sport climbing area called Last Chance Canyon. Our intent was to spend 2 days there climbing. After the first day of climbing, the weather decided to get a little chilly so we decided to peace out early. The climbing in Last Chance is on pocketed limestone. Being a little practice on the whole rock climbing thing, I think it was good that we only had one day to climb there. After 7 routes a piece, Cam and I were both completely exhausted. Needless to say, we are both out of climbing shape.

Since we were both totally wrecked from a day of sport climbing, we decided a good rest day activity would be to climb the highest peak in Texas, Guadeloupe Peak. Fortunately, Guadeloupe peak just so happens to be located between Carlsbad, NM and Hueco Tank (our next destination).

Guadeloupe Peak is 8751 ft. in elevation, and required an 8.4 mi round trip hike from the trailhead. The hike started off quite cold actually with even some frost on many of the tree along the north faces of the mountain.

Frosty trail

Mandatory chick photo on the summit

Now as we relax in the heated visitor center of Guadeloupe Mts. National Park, we get a chance to catch up on the things of the real world.

Carlsbad Caverns

As luck would have it, Cam and I pulled into the Carlsbad Caverns visitor center right at 5pm as they were closing. Our goal was to get a free backcountry permit to find a free place to sleep for the night. Fortunately enough for us, the park rangers were more than willing to point us in the direction of BLM land near-by with primo camping sites. Within about 30 min, we found ourselves tucked away not far from the park, with a nice little campsite all to our lonesome.

After a good night sleep and some coffee and breakfast the next morning, we made out way back over to the Caverns. One nice thing about national parks is, they tend to have nice bathrooms. So we brought our toothbrushes, face wash, and dirty dishes along with us.Unfortunately, we had our major accident of the trip today. While washing my French-press coffee maker after its maiden brew, I cracked the glass leading to its early retirement. It was a very sad day. Looks like from here on out, it is cowboy coffee for me

After a few hours of playing cavemen, we decided it was about time for some more climbing. So we loaded into the truck and drove out to Last Chance Canyon near Queen, NM. We decided that since this was a climbing trip, it was time to stay somewhere for a few days and do some climbing.

First Few Stops

So Cam and I have finally embarked on our gnarly adventure. After picking up Cam and enjoying a delicious dinner compliments of the Frisbys, we drove toward Austin. Fortunately for us the Spoetzl Brewery was roughly in our path, so a tour was mandatory. After enjoying some of Shiners famous beers and bbp (courtesy of Fred's BBQ) we drove to McKinney Falls State Park for our first bout of climbing of the trip.

What McKinney lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality. Nice pocketed limestone bouldering provided for a good reintroduction to rock climbing. After just a few hours of climbing led to shredded finger tips, and pumped forearms. We met a few locals who were super nice and provided some info for our adventures in Hueco Tanks.

Cam, enjoying the bouldering?

Its like a more solid Morrison

After McKinney Falls, we drove over to Austin and were hosted by Cam's friends from high school, David. He was super hospitable and gave us a shower and a tour of Austin and the UT campus.

The next morning we woke up and drove to Enchanted Rock to do some granite crack climbing. The rock was very Turkey Rocks-esque. The park was closed until 2pm for a public hunt so we pulled over to the side of the road to have some lunch. A fellow climber from Bishop, Ca pulled over with us and we sat around till the park open. Once in the park, the climb felt like a very foreign experience. I am not use to Texas with rocks. After doing some sweet crack climbs, we packed up and had some dinner.

E-Rock Sunset

Owl Crack

Middle Crack

I'm not sure what the hunters were doing, but they must not have been shooting deer because we basically got trampled by the deer while having dinner.

After dinner we drove into Frederickburg for a good night sleep. We pulled into some random neighborhood with a few cars on the street, jumped into the back of the truck for a good night’s sleep. Now we sit in a coffee shop in Fredricksburg with $1 coffee, enjoying free internet and getting ready to peace out for Carlsburg, New Mexico.

Time to hit the road

It has finally come. In T-minus 10 minutes, I'm driving out of my parents driveway. This afternoon I will drive to Houston and stay with Cameron and his family for the night. Tomorrow, we drive until we see the rocks....

Oh, while your here checking out the newest post, have a look our home on wheels.