More J-Tree Action

The last few days here in J-Tree have been awesome. Yesterday Cam and I had a 15 star day. Meaning, we climbed 4 climbs equaling 15 stars in total. It was amazing. We started off the day with a warm-up on the ultra classic Illusion Dweller (5.10a/b). Illusion Dweller is a sustained 5.9 right slanting crack that varies from fingers to hands with a crux coming right at the very end. Cam made easy work of it first thing in the morning with the onsite, with me following up with a flash.

Next, we were hoping to get on Runaway (5.11), a classic J-Tree bolted face route. Unfortunately there was a party on the climb, so we decided to hope on Fisticuffs (5.10b). Fisticuffs is Indian Creek in the Tree. The climb starts off with perfect hands and finished up with good fist, all while overhanging the slightest bit. This thing is a burl-fest for sure.

The third climb we jumped on was Clean and Jerk (5.10c). This climb served up a nice slice of humble pie for both Cameron and I. Clean and Jerk has a very bouldery start and remains sustained for the length of the climb. It was good to see where our weaknesses are though. We have climbed very few overhanging routes on the trip thus far, so it was good practice.

Our final climb of the day was our hardest yet. One of my goals for J-Tree was to onsite a 5.11 trad route. In lay terms, climb bottom to top on a hard (for me) route, while placing all my own gear, without falling. The route of choice was Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b). This route is a striking dihedral containing 2 cruxes. The first comes about 20 feet off the ground and involves stemming up the corner with very little in the way of hand holds. The second crux come right at the end and requires laybacking up a nice finger crack ending at a hallelujah jug.

Despite the amazing day of climbing, there was a bit of sadness. First sad bit of news, the weather forecast for the upcoming week does not look too good. But we really haven't had bad weather for the entire trip, so I guess our time has come.

Second, our campsite partners Lyle and Loraine had to leave the lovely J-Tree. It will be a little quieter around the campground for the next few nights, but I'm sure Cam and I will find new campmates before long, although I doubt the new neighbors will be cooking delicious scones on the camp stove.